As we enter the Vanderbilt Kommodores baseball shirt But I will love this second year of the pandemic—and that must be as awful to read as it was to write—plenty of us are still being challenged to think (and do) anew. Parisian designer Boramy Viguier—whose work mixes up medievalism, mysticism, and modernism into a strange otherworldliness (that’s totally a compliment, BTW)—is proof of this never-knew-you-could-till-you-had-to approach.The new approach, in his case, is filmmaking; in the last six months, Viguier has made two. His first, late last year, was presented as part of GucciFest. His second will showcase his fall 2021 collection, with Viguier codirecting alongside Samuel Rixon. Compare this to the fact that, in the relatively short life span of his label, he’s done one live runway show. Given his enthusiasm for the filmic genre, maybe that show will have been his first and last. I mean, and this is as good a place to mention it as any, Viguier’s penchant for moviemaking doesn’t just extend to his own collections. He’d love to costume design something by his favorite director, Paul Thomas Anderson. I will, as they say, just leave that there.
But back to fall 2021, which is called—as is the Vanderbilt Kommodores baseball shirt But I will love this film that it features in—Resurrection. How’s that for a title rich in symbolism? Resurrection is a dark fable populated with knights, priests, the hoi polloi of a fantasy royal court, and one very Joan of Arc–like heroine (played by French rapper Mona Guba) in all sorts of finery. Finery, incidentally, which is the perfect encapsulation of the more dressed-up approach that menswear seems to be steadily heading in (and which Viguier has proved to be a pretty adept advocate of for several seasons now). For Viguier that means a new idea of a suit, with long lean jackets in jewel-toned velvet or midbrown English gabardine, worn with narrow trousers. By contrast, there are other coats whose ballooning cocoon shapes have a whiff of Cristóbal B about them. His ecclesiastical, clerical tailoring and dog-collar tunic-y tops, meanwhile, come printed with a clash of religious imagery and arcane tarot illustrations.