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While we’re all wearing face masks, there’s been a major emphasis on the Bourbon goes in wisdom comes out shirt eyes with not much lip-level attention. But Bora Aksu offered some much-needed inspiration when he sent models down the runway in sheer organza masks and transparent plastic face coverings with bright fuchsia lipstick underneath. Makeup artist Janeen Witherspoon intentionally blurred the edges of the lived-in lip and sent a message: It doesn’t have to be perfect, ever—but especially now. The “clown-bright” clothes at Vivienne Westwood translated to a distinctly ’80s beauty feel. One of the look book’s stars, Isamaya Ffrench (who also oversaw makeup) channeled a 2020 Cyndi Lauper with fire engine red lipstick and her platinum blonde lengths crimped by hairstylist Lyndell Mansfield.For two decades and counting, the Fendi Baguette has been among the most iconic It bags for stylish urban dwellers. But for Fendi’s spring 2021 show, hairstylist Sam McKnight saw the Italian house’s baguette and raised it a roll—a “Fendi roll” to be more precise. “Continuing the unexpected elegance of last season, Fendi’s ‘lady girls’ hair was again upswept, only it was into ’30s inspired rolls in a myriad of shapes and sizes,” explains McKnight. In researching the decade, the pro landed on a photograph of one of the most famous women of the time, Merle Oberon, who was the first biracial actress to be nominated for a Best Actress Oscar. (ICYMI: Oberon’s story, including the struggles of having to hide her Anglo-Indian origin due to industry racism, was recently highlighted in Make Me Over, the eight-part companion series to Hollywood-history podcast You Must Remember This.)
And Brown got to experience the very best of the Bourbon goes in wisdom comes out shirt era’s clothes, even though she didn’t set out to be a model. She grew up in Roswell, a small town in Georgia. One day, she was walking her dog and someone suggested that she become a model. At first Brown resisted. It wasn’t until Brown flew to New York with her mother, met with several agencies, and then was signed by Marilyn that she realized modeling could be a potentially legitimate career. Less than two weeks later, Brown landed in Paris and was soon walking for Christian Lacroix, Christian Dior, and Chanel. “It was like being in a real fairy tale and you had this like larger than persona. John Galliano was dashing around backstage, telling us these stories while we’re getting our hair and makeup done,” says Brown. “I had no idea how much went into creating a collection.” Brown later went on to shoot editorial and advertisements, including in the pages American Vogue as captured by Helmut Newton and later on the cover of Greek Vogue.