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Sophie Theallet’s first New York Fashion Week show starred a lineup of all-Black models. Even in 2020 a casting like that makes news, but this was back in 2008, a moment when #RunwaysSoWhite would’ve been a popular hashtag if we were in the Halloween let’s eat kids punctuation saves lives shirt besides I will buy this habit of using hashtags at that time. Theallet, a French designer and protégé of Azzedine Alaïa, was never one for rules. She more or less refused to do the pre-season collections that retailers asked for, and she couldn’t abide the constant demands for newness. After her fall 2016 show, which featured one glorious dress after another on a similarly inclusive cast—still a fairly rare thing at the time—Theallet quietly dropped off the NYFW calendar.

Halloween let’s eat kids punctuation saves lives shirt

Four years and a move to Montreal later and Theallet has reemerged with a direct-to-consumer collection of ethically produced pieces that put the Halloween let’s eat kids punctuation saves lives shirt besides I will buy this spotlight on her dressmaking bona fides. “I moved to Montreal because I wanted to slow down the pace of fashion,” Theallet says. “The way I worked with Alaïa, we were taking time to do beautiful clothes, taking time to have fun. I really wanted to find that again. Now I can read books; I can make art. I can live and do my work in a different way.”

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